Gagra choli or Ghagra choli, which is also known as Lehenga choli, is the traditional clothing of women in Rajasthan[1][2] and Gujarat.[3] Chaniya choli is another term commonly used to refer it.[4] It is a combination outfit of a Lehenga, tight Choli and a Dupatta.
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Lehenga or Ghagra[5] is a form of skirt which is long, embroidered and pleated. It is worn as the bottom portion of a Gagra choli. It is secured at the waist and leaves the lower back and midriff bare.[6] It was introduced by the Mughals.[7] Lehenga is a typical feminine silhouette that epitomizes style, craftsmanship, quality and class of Indian clothing.[8]
The lehengas are made of a number of fabrics such as Silk, Cotton, Georgette, Crape, Net, Satin, Brocade and Chiffon.[9] Even though designers have successfully used the various kinds of fabrics for making the lehenga, silk is still the most preferred fabric. Silk Lehenga is considered to be the most beautiful version of old traditional attire, as it used to be in Mughal era.[10] Silk lehengas are timelessly classic. They have been in vogue since olden times and will always remain so. They own a special place in the fashion world as they are suitable to be worn for all occasions.
Apart from the fabric, decorative stitching patterns also play a role. Lehengas come with a wide variety of decoration work like zari, zardozi, embroidery, diamante work, beads embroidery work, kundan work, mirror work, etc.[11]
The ghagra cholis can be worn in different styles. The styles basically differ based on the lehenga designs.[12] Following are some of the basic styles;[13][14]
| Picture | Style | Description |
|---|---|---|
| A-line Lehenga | A-line lehengas are typical. They flow down in A-shape and are ideal for pear shaped brides. | |
| Circular Lehenga | Circular lehenga, as the name suggests, is circular in shape and has a large circumference. This style is the pick of those who yearn for exclusivity and elegance. | |
| Fishtail/Mermaid Lehenga | Fishtail Lehenga sticks to your body from the waistline and flares down at the bottom, apt for the curvaceous and an hourglass frame. This sort is flawless for those who love to go glam.It is somewhat similar to the Hobble skirt of the Western Fashion. | |
| Panelled Lehenga | Panelled lehenga, the best lehenga, offers the right amount of flare and a perfect fall. | |
| Straight Cut Lehenga | Straight cut lehenga is the customary style of Bridal Lehenga. It flows down in a parallel manner and fits every shape and body type. With straight cut and tapered Lehenga, it is advisable to have soft fabrics rather than stiffer fabrics. |
The lehenga choli is the favourite female apparel worn during festivals, weddings or special events in India. This is due to traditions as well as of the fact that it is available in a number of fabrics with many different decorative choices.[15] Traditionally the sari and the lehenga choli are the most popular garments for the bride in India.[16] But it is a common bridal attire mostly in North India.[17]
Due to modern fashion trends, lehenga cholis have now become a fashion statement. The cholis has become shorter and is sometimes substituted with Western crop top, halter neck or baby doll tops.[18] Along with saris, low-rise navel revealing ghaghra cholis have emerged. Designer Manish Malhotra's Fashion Week collections regularly highlight low waisted ghaghras accompanied by short cholis. Such ghagra cholis are more commonly worn by the Bollywood celebrities.For example, Actress Priyanka Chopra was featured in a low rise ghagra choli designed by designer Ritu Kumar on the opening show of the HDIL India Couture Week 2008 held in Mumbai.[19][20][21] At the Blenders Pride Fashion Tour 2011, she was featured in a low rise ghagra choli designed by Neeta Lulla.[22] Recently in the Pantaloons Femina Miss India 2011 event,all the finalists walked the ramp in modern white low-rise ghagra cholis.[23]
Item numbers have found its place in Bollywood from the early 1950s.It required revealing clothes for the dancing female to look attractive.But the ghagra choli being worn for an item number became popular due to Madhuri Dixit's performance in the film Khalnayak(1993) for the controversial song "Choli Ke Peeche Kya Hai" in a red ghagra choli.[24][25] After which many number of Bollywood item numbers had featured the female dancer in a ghagra choli outfit.[26] Of which the most famous are the ones performed by actress Malaika Arora Khan. She featured in revealing ghagra cholis for the hit songs "Chaiyya Chaiyya" in Dil Se (1998)[27] and "Munni Badnam" in Dabangg (2010).[28]
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